The Daily Meal: Mulino a Vino - An 'Italian Wine Restaurant' with a One-of-a-Kind Menu

Mulino a Vino, or The Wine Mill (the name is a play on mulino a vento, Italian for windmill), a self-styled "Italian Wine Restaurant" which opened in early September on the edge of Manhattan's trendy Meatpacking District, is a gem of a place, with good food, good wine, and a feeling very much its own. The particulars:

The owners: Paolo Meregalli and Edoardo Marchiorello, who are also partners in Meregalli USA, a wine import firm. Meregalli owns a wine bar called Mulino a Vino in Italy itself, in Monza, just north of Milan. That Wine Mill has a menu of salads, cheeses, salumi, and "carpacci" (a silly neologism which attempts to make a plural out of a man's last name), and has little relation to its New York counterpart beyond a shared name.

The chef: Davide Scabin, one of the better-known contemporary-style chefs in Italy, holder of two Michelin stars for his avant-garde Combal.Zero in Rivoli Torino, near Turin in the country's Piedmont region. Scabin is not involved with the Monza restaurant, but has "designed the menu" for the Mulino a Vino here. While he is around these days, it is unclear how much time he intends to spend here or how often he will grace the establishment with his presence.

The place: Basement level, warm and woody, 25 to 30 seats at regular tables plus another 15 or so around a marble-topped counter hemming in the kitchen and at a broad shelf against the front window; a private dining room in back, with room for 20 people tops plus a "library," a small salon equipped with couches.

The service: Very friendly, knowledgeable, earnest. It is said that all the servers know the wines on the list (ours, at the counter, certainly seemed to) and it is recommended that diners choose their wines first, then build their meals around them.

The wines: A small but attractively eccentric all-Italian selection, with everything available by the bottle or the five-ounce glass (open wines are kept fresh through Coravin technology), including some offerings that are seldom seen (a sangiovese vinified "white," with no skin contact; a Sicilian zibibbo, which in fact is a dry muscat of Alexandria) as well as multiple vintages of some big names like Ornellaia and Sassicaia — in this case with glasses costing into the hundreds of dollars. Silly oversize tulip-shaped wine glasses, awkward to handle and no friend to the wines' bouquet (the big red wine glasses are particularly unwieldy for handling five-ounce pours).

The food: Imaginative reworkings of classic Italian dishes and a few i

"SuperTuscan Cecina" is a chickpea-flour pancake (a slightly thicker version of the farinata of Liguria or the socca of Nice) topped with burrata and paper-thin slices of tomato "carpaccio" (singular) and finished with a flourish of mozzarella–basil foam straight from a siphon. Brandacujun is a version of an old Ligurian dish, traditionally made with dried cod (stoccafisso, or stockfish) but here using salt cod (baccalà), with the fish finely puréed with potato and seasoned with black olive bits, anchovy, and parsley oil — silky and delicate, despite its strong-flavored ingredients. Shrimp Island risotto is remarkable: a towering cone of perfectly cooked, perfectly white carnaroli rice in the middle of a plate, topped with wisps of red shrimp; dense shrimp bisque is poured around it and the diner mixes the rice and soup together, producing a perfect risotto. Roast chicken ravioli is just that: ravioli filled with roast chicken, potatoes, and ricotta, tossed with sautéed mushrooms and moistened with burrata cream — delicious.

The standout, though, is a celebrated dish from Combal.Zero, "bombolone cacio e pepe." A bombolone is a plump Italian doughnut, typically filled with custard or marmalade (picture a sugar-dusted American jelly doughnut). Scabin's version is made with pasta (apparently, pasta is cooked into mush and then reconstituted as dough) and is filled with the elements of the classic Roman cacio e pepe sauce — pecorino Romano and black pepper (in a cream sauce in this case). Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano takes the place of powdered sugar on top. The result is wonderful, salty and savory.

There are another eight dishes on the brief menu, including a Combal.Zero take on vitello tonnato, a dish of braised octopus with black olives and cherry tomatoes, and what is apparently a straightforward tagliatelle alla bolognese "the real one," with a six-hour sauce. The very short dessert list includes a "Tribute to Manhattan" cheesecake: peanut butter cheesecake with blueberry jelly.

The prices: Steep. Each of the 13 items on the dinner menu is offered in three sizes, piccolo, medio, and grande — small, medium, and large. These are $18, $32, and $45, respectively. (Desserts are also served in three sizes, priced at $12, $20, and $30.) A small portion of the brandacujun, however tasty, was only a few forks' worth; a small portion of bombolone consists of a single one. Two people could made a nice meal out of three small portions apiece, but that's $108 right there, before wine, tax, and tip.

The verdict: Great little place, unusual and fun, especially if you've got plenty of leeway on your Visa card. At the very least, it’s worth stopping by for a bombolone and a glass of good red wine.

Fodor's Travel: Best Restaurant in NYC

MULINO A VINO

Tucked in the basement of an unassuming apartment building, the new, romantic wine-focused Mulino A Vino is helmed by Michelin-starred Italian chef Davide Scabin. Here’s how it works: there’s a choice of 50 options (bottle or glass) to pair with your meal, and dishes come in three sizes (small, medium, large). You can’t go wrong with the hearty Mulino’s Polpetta (Mamma’s big meatball, baby spinach with blue cheese, endive and a “secret squeezed” sauce), or you can stick with a classic pasta bolognese. Don’t miss the decadent “Tribute to Manhattan” cheesecake, which sinfully utilizes peanut butter and blueberry jelly.

BEST BY-THE-GLASS WINE LIST IN THE US!

BY KATE PARHAM KORDSMEIER FOR CORAVIN

You may have thought ordering wine by the bottle in restaurants is a better value than ordering by the glass. And that used to be true. But that was before the Coravin came along—with its revolutionary technology, restaurants are now able to pour hundreds of wines by the glass that weren’t economically feasible previously. Want to try a sip of that crazy expensive Bordeaux but can’t afford the whole bottle? No problem. Itching for a taste of that legendary Sauternes, but only need enough to pair with your foie gras dish? Easy. So where are the best places to drink by the glass in America? Here are four of our favorites:

1. Mulino a Vino (NYC): This Manhattan newcomer uses their Coravin with wild abandon, pouring every single wine on their list with the device—that’s 50 wines for oenophiles scoring at home. With an Italian-only list, expect lesser-known offerings not often seen in the States, like Sicilian Zibibbo and multiple vintages of heavyweights like Sassicaia. The wines are even rolled out on a special cart before being individually aerated and served.

2. Minibar (DC): With a menu as evolving and exciting as Minibar’s (chef José Andrés' innovative tasting-menu-only hotspot), it’s no surprise wine director Andy Meyers offers 85 percent of his 75-bottle-strong wine list by the half or full glass with Coravin. Pairings have never tasted so good—especially considering the rare offerings you’ll find here, from Domaine de la Foliette Muscadet up to Comtes Lafon Grand Cru Le Montrachet.

3. Miller Union (Atlanta): At this Southern-influenced eatery, the wine is sourced just like the farm-fresh food—it’s mostly small producers who grow biodynamically, organically and sustainably. Neal McCarthy, co-owner and sommelier, strives to provide wine from as many regions as possible on his by-the-glass list, which spans 24 wines that rotate every few months. Look for Ploussard from Jura, 2006 Barolo and Sicilian Grillo.

Best Italian Place for Mediaset Italia

 

La meglio pasta di New York

di Stefano Vegliani 24 ottobre 2014

Il 2 novembre si corre la maratona di New York, la corsa attraverso i 5 quartieri di New York con arrivo trionfale a Centra Park è la più famosa del mondo, la più ambita. Da anni i runners italiani costituiscono uno dei gruppi più numerosi. Al via ci sarà anche Valeria Straneo che dopo il quinto posto di un anno fa punta al podio.


Ma la stragrande maggioranza dei nostri connazionali che saranno presenti al via dal ponte di Verrazzano corre per il piacere di divertirsi e tagliare il traguardo soddisfatti.


Si sa che alla vigilia di una sforzo del genere bisogna fare il pieno di carboidrati e che non sempre all’estero è cosa semplice. Nella grande mela si mangia di tutto e anche la cucina italiana non è più quella degli spaghetti (scotti) con meatballs, le polpette.
Così abbiamo scelto qualche buon indirizzo, quasi tutti testati di persona, dove potersi nutrire adeguatamente nei giorni precedenti la maratona. Gli abbiamo elencati in ordine rigorosamente alfabetico.

BABBO


110 Waverly Pl, New York, NY (212)777-0303
E’ il ristorante di Mario Batali, guru della cucina italiana negli Stati Uniti, in società con Joe Bastianich. C’è un menu degustazione con 5 piatti di pasta e due dessert. Considerato il miglior ristorante italiano della grande mela: ospita ogni mese una cucina regionale diversa. Ottobre è il mese del Trentino Alto Adige. Costoso

EATALY


200 Fifth Avenue (212)229.2560
E’ la capitale dell’impero di Oscar Farinetti. Non c’è un orario del giorno in cui non sia affollatissimo. All’interno ci sono ben sette ristoranti : da quello dedicato alla pasta, a quello incentrato sulle verdure. All’ultimo piano la birreria. Economico

 

MALATESTA TRATTORIA


649 Washington St (212) 741-1207
Nel cuore del Village, una trattoria italiana senza fronzoli che ha avuto un grande successo. Oltre a un ottimo piatto di pasta troverete anche le piadine fatte in casa, perché Emanuele Attala, il titolare, è un romagnolo Doc. Prezzo medio

MALAPARTE RISTORANTE


753 Washington St, New York, NY 10014, ( 212) 255-2122
Stessa proprietà di Malatesta Trattoria, ma ambiente più intimo e raccolto. Aperto nel 2011 sforna anche ottime pizze e prepara piatti di pesce all’insegna della semplicità. Naturalmente in casa di un romagnolo non potevano mancare le Lasagne. Economico

MULINO A VINO


337 W 14th St, (212) 433-0818
E’ l’ultima apertura italiana in città. Siamo nel quartiere di Chelsea, famoso per le sue gallerie d’arte. Autore del menù è Davide Scabin, lo chef stellato del Combal Zero di Rivoli alle porte di Torino. Cucina italiana di grande qualità con ottimi abbinamenti ai vini. Per ogni piatto del menù si possono scegliere tre dimensioni: small, medium e large. Prezzo medio

3 REASON TO EAT AT MULINO A VINO

3 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD DINE AT MULINO A VINO

A review of Davide Scabin’s First Restaurant in New York 

With a name like Davide Scabin, you know you are going to have a good meal. And that’s exactly what you will be having if you decide to dine at the Michelin-starred chef’s new outpost (and first one in New York), Mulino a Vino.

The moment you set foot in the restaurant, you realize how authentically Italian the place is – if you’ve ever been to Italy, in fact, you’ll recognize the inebriating smell of buttery creams and fresh herbs. However, a glance at the menu and you will soon find yourself lost in new creations and quite bold combinations you wouldn’t find in your Granma’s kitchen. From a salty and spicy cacio e pepe bombolone to a peanut butter and jelly “Tribute to Manhattan” cheesecake – Davide Scabin has brought some of his inventive creativity of his Combal.Zero to New York.

If the above mentioned deliciousness weren’t enough for you to jump at the opportunity to go and try Mulino a Vino, here are another three reasons:

1. Wine comes first
With a name like Mulino a Vino, we couldn’t expect any less. Scabin knows very well how important wine is in a meal – how the ruby or hay colored liquids can enhance the flavors displayed on the plate. And that is why at Mulino a Vino you choose your wine first. Bold and robust, or fruity and delicate, from the selected wine, the servers will be able to recommend the perfect food pairing. Basically any wine lover’s paradise. And who doesn’t love wine!

2. A joyful sharing
All plates on the menu come in a small ($18), medium ($28) and large ($42) size, meaning that you can taste multiple plates and share them with the group! Apart from being the best way of dining since you indeed get to widen your palate and try almost every single thing on the menu, there’s also the added value of being able to discuss the flavors – and the pairing with the wine! – with your date or group of friends!

3. Donuts for dinner…it doesn’t get better than that!
Americans are renowned to be donut lovers, however let’s face it: Italians are probably not as bothered…until we realize that donut is the English equivalent of “bombolone” – those amazing, exquisite fried pastry dough balls with sugar powder on top. Then we all become huge fans. That is probably why Scabin decided to keep the “bombolone” name on the menu for his cacio e pepe donut – yes, a savory donut that can be eaten as an appetizer!

Still looking for another reason? Or have you already booked your table for tonight?

- See more at: http://www.italianfood.net/b2c/2015/01/02/3-reasons-dine-mulino-vino/#sthash.bopFTLIP.dpuf

TIME OUT

MULINO A VINO: Wine takes precedence in this subterranean lounge, where waiter-sommeliers pair vino (cannonau, sweet rosé) with dishes like roasted-chicken ravioli and shrimp risotto.

Diner's Choice Award 2015!

Diner's Choice Award 2015!

Thank you OpenTable and our beloved customers who voted us the number one "Restaurant with the Most Notable Wine List" Diner's Choice Award 2015!!! We are so honored and proud!

 

Sunday's Brunch!

Sunday's Brunch!

Starting from January 25th we will open for brunch on Sundays form 11:30am to 4:00pm. We have a brand new brunch menu and a lot of wines! 

Brunch

Brunch

Our Executive Chef Davide Scabin is finalizing our brunch menu. Stay tuned...

7 days a week

7 days a week

We are now open 7 days a week. You can enjoy your favorite wine also on Monday!