MULINO A VINO Davide Scabin, who has two Michelin stars for his Combal.Zero near Turin, Italy, recalls that in 1990, at age 25, he was supposed to take over the kitchen at Tony May’s San Domenico in New York. A family issue prevented it. But now he’s here, “humble,” he said, though he noted that “a major chef from Italy is missing in New York.” (Don’t tell that to Cesare Casella.) His restaurant, in the basement of an unassuming apartment building in the meatpacking district, consists of a glossy marble bar with an open kitchen, a collection of rough-hewed tables in a brick-walled space and a warren of small rooms. Customers will be asked to choose their wine before ordering food, which includes traditional dishes with an unusual twist, like folding the veal over a tonnato filling without mayonnaise, or pasta with a mix of amatriciana and carbonara sauces. 337 West 14th Street.