You don’t expect to encounter the food of a Michelin-two-starred chef in a 14th Street basement, but here it is: a toasty prosciutto sandwich with burrata; a crisp chickpea-flour pancake topped with tomato carpaccio; the “bombolone cacio & pepe,” a.k.a. pasta doughnut. Davide Scabin is known for his modernist exploits at Combal.Zero in Rivoli, but here, he’s marrying cucina classica to tweezer food. The menu, though, is subservient to the wine, each bottle opened by cork-piercing Coravin and every wine-list sub­category paired with recommended dishes. Considering Scabin’s Piedmont connections, you’ll want to spring for a truffle supplement