How Mulino a Vino Puts an Avant-Garde Spin on Spaghettoni al Pomodoro

By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

Most Italians are traditionalists when it comes to how they cook their pasta (al dente) and how they sauce it (minimally). Mulino a Vino chef Massimiliano Eandi, on the other hand, takes the sort of avant-garde approach to spaghettoni al pomodoro that you might expect from a disciple of Davide Scabin, the Piedmontese modernist who’s a partner and guiding culinary spirit at this Chelsea wine bar. Eandi maximizes the flavor of the tomato by using its pulpy liquid to rehydrate the dried pasta (which never sees a pot of boiling water) and its outer shell as a cooking vessel. The classic accompaniments (garlic, basil, grated cheese) take the interpretive forms of a frico slicked with basil purée and a black-garlic garnish.